Wednesday 7 March 2012

Assembling the Crossbox

I thought it was time to put all the pieces together.
Still a few finishing touches to complete.
1. The Butt Plate (8 to 10 layers of pigs leather).
2. The Prods plastic and metal seating protectors.
3. Make the Sight.
4. Anything else I can think of doing!






Foot Stirup

The Garden shed forge came back to life today.
But this time their was lots and lots of heat and hammering.
The Steel was a post from an old childs stair gate.
One blowtorch was not enough to get the required heat into
the metal. But with two it was a lot faster.
My anvil is an old lump hammer and my main hammer is an
old lump hammer.
Three hours of beating the crap out of it and bending it in a vice, and I was very chuffed with result.






Bolt spring ,Sight rail and Dry fire.

The bolt spring was cut from an old hand saw.
It was so easy to do, up until I had to drill it. I killed my 3mm and nearly killed my 4mm drill bits.
Ah well I will have to buy some more!
The Sight rail which is dovetailed was straight forward, except
It took an age to recess the underside to hide the bolt spring body, I used a 5" grinder with a 1mm disc to remove the material.
It does not look pretty but its all hidden under the rail.
The Dryfire is a straight forward, gravity pin, which does the job.
I was very pleased with the results.





Monday 5 March 2012

Stock Finishing

Sanded through the grades up to 600 grit.
3 coats of walnut stain applied with wire wool, to give the depth of color I was after.
Another light sand with 600.
Then 2 coats of clear epoxy, cut 50/50 with a solvent.
Another light sand. Then to finish, Briwax.
Has given the smooth satin look I was after.

Once again, thanks to jasonwemp (youtube), For his stock design.




Sunday 4 March 2012

Installing the Prod Part 1 and a bit

Just a quick picture update.
Took me a hell of a time to get the front of the prod slot
in the right place.
More soon


Installing the Prod Part 1

I've cut the stock to the required length. Shaped the end and
fashioned 2 x 5mm thick end plates.
More to follow



Friday 2 March 2012

Cocking Rope Part II

Put together all the bits and bobs of the cocking rope.
Not overly pretty but, it does the job.
The rope runs very smoothly through the hooks, when I get
the prod, I may even video the first cocking.



Thursday 1 March 2012

Cocking Rope

Had some time to spare today while still waiting for the prod.
So decided to try and make a simple cocking rope.
Two handles (Not started yet) and two hooks one of which is just about complete.
It took me about 20 mins to cut all the pieces to a rough shape,
out of 12mm aluminium flat bar and another hour with a file to
shape the first hook.
I'm not attempting to make a pulley version as I think a piece of
tent guy rope or para cord, fully waxed should run smoothly
through the aluminium hook. If not, I will have at least learned
a few more aluminium shaping techneques. And have two new hooks
for the wife to hang her pictures on.....






Choice of Stain

I have three colours to choose from.
Well two actually. Because the natural colour of the wood
is too yellow for me.
So the two pictures below are one in direct sunlight and one in shade.
Colours are Left to Right
Walnut, natural with water added to bring out colour, and English Light Oak.
The camera does not do the colours justice, as the grain really stands
out with the two stained sections.
I do prefer the Walnut as I have always liked that wood.
But also I have a few sheets of Walnut Burr Vaneer, with an amazing
grain pattern, which I might add a little to the project.



Wednesday 29 February 2012

The Rail

I bought two pieces of aluminium angle for the rail.
Both of which ar 1mtr long. (One piece would have done).
They fit like a glove. I decided to shape a little arrow head in end of each side.
I also bought single slot wood screws to fix the rails in place, which i will do tomorrow.
The rails will eventually be bedded in epoxy and screwed in place after the wood has its finish.
The 175lbs prod I have ordered from merlin archery has a brace length of 4"
and a power stroke of 12" giving me a 16" prod to nut, rail length.
When the prod arrives I will shorten the stock and reshape the prod end of it.
What is next is research in attaching the prod.
I want to make it so it can be removed quickly and easily. Yet it has to look smooth with no nuts or bolts sticking out!